The restaurant flows between front and back sections, connected by an open kitchen and bar that face each other. A board hangs beside the kitchen displaying daily specials, while the famous ducks command attention in the background. Inside the iconic Puck Building, the space charms with dim lighting and a quiet buzz throughout its spacious interior. The only downside: unless you snag a booth, the snug seating arrangements mean intimate proximity to neighboring diners and their conversations.

The meal solidified this spot as my new favorite Italian in NYC, dethroning L'Artusi. The Italian and American Hams with Zeppole is a must-order appetizer - perfectly fried dough paired with caramelized apple creates delightful complexity. The Octopus Nha Trang reimagines a traditional dish, laying tender octopus over Vietnamese-style vegetables and herbs that add tartness and crunch.

The pasta dishes showcase remarkable creativity. The Raviolini with Prawns and Saffron will ruin other ravioli for you - fresh, plump with shrimp, so good our table fought over the last piece. The Cavatelli with Jamaican Beef Ragu delivers warming, meaty flavors without overwhelming spice - a clever twist on Italian tradition. The Penne with Chanterelles, while good, couldn't compete with its stellar companions. For dinner service, don't miss the tender Duck Alla Mulberry with its complementary sauce (not available during lunch).

Service, while not overly attentive or warm, was competent. Perhaps when the food is this thoughtfully prepared and masterfully executed, you don't need theatrical enthusiasm from the staff.

Pro tip: grab a box of matches from the hostess - a perfect memento of your meal.